A single firework can reach between 120 and 175 decibels. That’s louder than a jet engine at take-off, and your dog hears it with ears far more sensitive than yours. The RSPCA has confirmed that fireworks can leave dogs with tinnitus, hearing loss and lasting damage, which is why knowing how to protect your dog from fireworks matters long before the first rocket goes up on 5 November. This guide covers the seven things that actually work, in the order you should do them.
Written using published guidance from the RSPCA, Dogs Trust, The Kennel Club and BSAVA, combined with the acoustic side of the problem that most fireworks advice leaves out.
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- Around 27 dB of noise reduction, aimed at the loud peaks rather than every sound
- Five sizes (XS to L) so the cups sit properly on small and large breeds alike
- Light enough that most dogs accept them after a few short, rewarded sessions
- Reusable and washable, so one pair covers Bonfire Night, New Year and thunderstorms
- 40-day money-back guarantee from a brand trusted by 1,000,000+ people
- Needs introducing gradually, so it is a poor last-minute purchase
- Costs more than a fabric snood or anxiety wrap
- Not right for dogs who panic at anything touching their head
1. Plan how to protect your dog from fireworks weeks in advance, not on the night
Almost everything that works takes time. Dogs Trust builds its whole fireworks programme around sound desensitisation, which means playing recorded firework noise at a volume so low your dog barely registers it, then raising it by tiny increments over several weeks while something good happens at the same time. Dinner, a chew, a game. The aim isn’t to make your dog brave. It’s to teach the brain that bangs predict food rather than danger.
Six to eight weeks is a sensible run-up. If you’re reading this in late October you can still do a compressed version, but be honest about what it will achieve. Sound desensitisation for dogs is a slow build, and pushing the volume too fast can make firework anxiety worse instead of better. If you’ve missed the window this time, start now for next year.
One thing to avoid: playing the sound at a level that makes your dog freeze, pant or leave the room. That isn’t training, that’s rehearsal for the real thing.
2. Build a den your dog actually chooses to use
Every charity page says build a safe space, and they are right, but the detail matters. A den works when your dog picks it, not when you put a bed in a corner and hope. Watch where they already go when they are unsettled. Behind the sofa, under the stairs, in the bathroom. That spot is already the den.
Make it better rather than different. Add a familiar blanket, something that smells of you, a couple of high-value chews. Pile cushions or heavy throws around the sides to deaden sound and block flashes. Leave the door open at all times, because a dog who is shut in a crate during a panic can hurt themselves trying to get out.
Set it up two or three weeks ahead so it becomes ordinary furniture rather than a signal that something bad is coming. Plug-in pheromone diffusers, which the RSPCA suggests, need a couple of weeks to build up too, so if you are using one, start it early and put it near the den.
3. Understand how loud fireworks really are to a dog
Most fireworks advice stops at the behaviour and leaves this bit out. Consumer fireworks in the UK are permitted up to 120 dB, and professional displays run higher, with published figures for the category reaching 175 dB. For scale, a pneumatic drill sits around 100 dB, and permanent hearing damage in humans starts to become a risk from about 85 dB with sustained exposure.
Dogs hear roughly four times further than we do and pick up frequencies well above our upper limit, up to around 45,000 Hz against our 20,000. So a bang that makes you flinch doesn’t just startle your dog. It arrives louder, sharper, and carrying a whole band of high-frequency content you can’t hear at all. That’s a large part of why dogs are so scared of fireworks. It’s a physical event, not only an emotional one.
The RSPCA goes further and states that fireworks can cause dogs tinnitus, hearing loss and long-term hearing damage. Public pressure is building on the noise itself: a petition signed by more than 184,000 people has asked the government to cut the maximum for consumer fireworks from 120 dB to 90 dB, and it is currently under review. Until something changes in law, the volume is a fixed part of the problem and worth treating as one.
4. Add ear protection as a complement to the training, never a replacement
Once you accept that the noise itself is doing damage, reducing it becomes an obvious move. Noise-reducing earmuffs for dogs work the same way industrial ear defenders do for people: they take the top off the peaks so a bang lands as a dull thud instead of a crack. Dog ear defenders for fireworks won’t cure noise phobia, and no reputable brand should claim they do. What they do is lower the intensity of the trigger, which makes the behavioural work you’ve already done far more likely to hold.
Fit is the whole game. Cups that are too big slip and get pawed off. Cups that are too tight get rejected in seconds. BOLLSEN Dog+ covers XS to L for this reason, with around 27 dB of reduction. Measure your dog rather than guessing from breed. You can also see how the leading dog ear defenders compare in our separate side-by-side test.
Introduce them the same way you introduced the sound. Show, treat, remove. Then on for two seconds, treat, remove. Build to a few minutes over a fortnight, in a quiet room, before you ever use them in anger. A dog meeting earmuffs for the first time during a barrage will associate them with the fear, and you won’t get a second chance.
5. Walk, feed and toilet early on the day
The Kennel Club advice here is simple and it works. Walk in daylight, well before dusk, because most displays start once it is dark and being caught outside during one can undo weeks of progress. Keep your dog on a lead the whole time even if they are normally reliable off it. A startled dog runs first and thinks later.
Feed earlier than usual too. An anxious dog often won’t eat once the noise starts, and a full stomach earlier in the evening means you’re not trying to coax food into a frightened animal at nine o’clock. Give them a final toilet break in the garden before it gets dark, and check the fence and gate while you are out there.
6. Set the house up before dark
Close all the windows, doors and cat flaps, then draw the curtains. Blackout blinds or a thick curtain do double duty by muffling sound and hiding the flashes, which many dogs react to as much as the bangs.
Put on background noise. Radio, television, a familiar playlist, anything with steady mid-range sound that masks the gaps between bangs. Volume slightly above normal is fine, blasting it isn’t, since you’re trying to blur the edges of the noise rather than add to it. Turn on the lights in the room your dog is in so the flashes are less visible through the gaps.
Check the microchip details are current before the night. This is the single most neglected item on every fireworks checklist, and lost-dog numbers spike every 5 November. If you’ve moved house or changed mobile number since registering, update it now. A collar tag with your phone number on it costs a few pounds and works even when a scanner is not to hand.
7. Comfort your dog, and know when to involve your vet
The old advice that comforting a frightened dog reinforces the fear is outdated, and both the RSPCA and Dogs Trust have moved away from it. Fear isn’t a behaviour you reward. If your dog comes to you, stroke them, talk to them normally and let them lean on you. If they’d rather be alone in the den, let them. Follow their lead instead of pulling them out to reassure them.
Stay calm yourself, because dogs read our body language fast. Sit down, breathe normally, keep the television on. Never punish or scold panic, and never force your dog to face the noise in the belief they will get used to it. Flooding a phobic dog makes the phobia worse.
If your dog’s response is severe, involving destroyed doors, injury, loss of bladder control or hours of uncontrollable shaking, that’s a veterinary matter rather than a training one. Your vet can prescribe short-term anxiety medication for the night and refer you to a clinical animal behaviourist for a proper programme, which is exactly what the RSPCA recommends for the worst cases. Book that appointment in September or early October. Practices are fully booked by the last week of October every year.
Quieter fireworks make every other step easier. Give your dog around 27 dB less noise to cope with.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why are dogs so scared of fireworks?
Two reasons stack on top of each other. Fireworks are unpredictable, so there is no warning and no pattern to learn from, and they are extremely loud to an animal built to hear far more than we do. Add the flashes, the smell of smoke and the vibration through the floor, and there’s no way for a dog to make sense of any of it. Some breeds are more prone to noise phobia than others, and a single bad experience as a puppy can set the pattern for life.
Can fireworks damage my dog’s hearing?
Yes. The RSPCA states that fireworks can cause dogs tinnitus, hearing loss and long-term hearing damage. Fireworks in the 120 to 175 dB range sit far above the level at which sustained noise damages human hearing, and dogs are exposed to more of that energy than we are because of their wider frequency range. Reducing what reaches the ear is the only way to lower that risk on the night.
How loud are fireworks to a dog compared with a human?
There is no exact conversion, but dogs hear about four times further than we do and detect frequencies up to roughly 45,000 Hz against our 20,000. A firework that registers as loud but tolerable to you carries a high-frequency component your dog hears at full strength and you never notice at all.
Do dog ear defenders actually work for fireworks?
They work as noise reduction, not as a cure for anxiety. A well-fitted set like BOLLSEN Dog+ takes roughly 27 dB off the peaks, which turns a sharp crack into a muffled thump. Dogs who have been introduced to them calmly over a couple of weeks generally cope far better than those who meet them for the first time mid-display. Dogs who dislike anything on their head are the exception, and forcing the issue isn’t worth it.
Should I comfort my dog during fireworks?
Yes, if that is what your dog wants. The idea that comforting a scared dog reinforces the fear has been dropped by the RSPCA and Dogs Trust. Fear is an emotion, not a trick your dog is performing for attention. Stroke them, speak normally and stay close. If they’d rather hide in their den, leave them there and check on them quietly.
Should I walk my dog on Bonfire Night?
Walk during daylight and be home well before dusk. Most displays start after dark, and a dog caught outside during one can bolt. Keep the lead on for the whole walk, even for a dog who is normally solid off-lead, and make the last garden toilet trip before the light goes.
What should I do if my dog runs away during fireworks?
Check the microchip and tag details are current before 5 November, since that is what gets most dogs home. If your dog does bolt, search the immediate area first because frightened dogs often hide close by rather than running far, then report it to your microchip database, your local council’s dog warden and DogLost, and post in local social media groups with a clear photo.

